Fifth Grill (★★★)
A hand-operated coal-mine elevator takes guests from the open (and surprisingly clean) club area up to a lofty boutique restaurant full of wood-tones and country-style décor. Our waitress was upbeat to the point of babbling ludicrousness, finishing long-winding tongue twisters in record time. She was an entertaining touch to this already eccentric experience. The food if could be described in one word would be bland. They were safe and uninspiring, though some citrusy flourishes were well founded in the salad and the chicken was well portioned. Altogether it was not an unsavory experience, much owing to the atmosphere, but it is no longer the Fifth Grill of Didier Leroy, Marc Thuet and J.P. Challet.