Jan 9: Café Boulud (★★★★)
Daniel Boulud, a three Michelin star chef from New York and of French training opens his first restaurant in Toronto in the new Four Seasons hotel in Yorkville. It is pretentious but with a Canadian spin that differs from the uptight New York affair. It has quickly catapulted to a top position in the Toronto restaurant scene, and so it should. Lunch is a light and social atmosphere and informal enough. Table settings are minimalist and efficient: one fork and one knife at any one time. The pâté comes on a cobalt stone plate with a side of bread. It appears to be a mundane dish but the disperse vegetables have another idea. They are resplendent, a three dimensional masterpiece with varied flavours and textures and each complement the pâté differently. Better still is the calves liver, a cross between steak and foie gras. The velvety texture and the fatty flavours are seared and accentuated; why we do not eat more liver, I do not know. It goes perfectly with the sweet caramelized onions marmalade sauce. In both courses, less savoury cuts of meat are given Boulud makeovers and become something extraordinary. Sir, Toronto welcomes you.
Pâté de Campagne
pork, chicken, liver terrine
pickled vegetables, spelt levain
Seared Calves Liver
super green spinach, onion marmalade sauce diable
Two Courses 29