July 12: Maléna ★★★

$35 Dinner

On a northward bike ride, the non-descript building is unidentifiable. Only after the u-turn does the north-facing signage become visible. Unfortunately, it is miscategorised on Toronto's Summerlicious website as being Mediterranean (though it is Greek to some extent). One glance at the protruding wine racks and the shelf of prominent balsamic vinegars confirms it is first, and foremost, Italian. It is the less cool version of its sister L’unità (which we will go to next week) down the street. Exposed brick, wood floors and wood tables make for a comfortable sitting (like Terroni and Mercatto). The servers go out of their way: one shook my hand and another returned a forgotten credit card to me on the sidewalk (another reason to tip well!). The food was not spectacular. The Fluke Crudo lacked acid and quickly vanished to the background. The Branzino (what the Mediterraneans call Sea Bass) was slightly burnt though the tomatoes were juicy and helped cut the through the fish. The sponge cake was wonderfully airy and the mousse, light, that the sumptuous dessert felt rather healthful. Here is an example of where atmosphere helps make the food taste so much better.

Atlantic Fluke Crudo
Zucchini, cherry tomato, red pepper & olive oil

Grilled Market Fish Summer
panzanella, sea salt & olive oil

Raspberry & Chocolate Parfait
Raspberry conserva, orange sponge cake & chocolate mousse