July 3: Gabardine (★★★★)

Gabardine tries to transport tightly wound and weary eyed bankers to more passive times. The tiny outpost on Bay Street is an anachronism to the nearby high-rise towers and high-octane bars and grills. The name refers to the tight fabric found on Burberry coats; the references to the industrious working class of Great Britain are uncanny (ploughman’s lunch - $17). The waitresses dress in eccentric, flowery dresses and some are nicer than others. I had the sautéed bc black cod with braised lentils and mushrooms ($24). The lentil sauce is unapologetically flavorful and glazes the delicate black cod. Other menu items are less pricey and less healthful, as a throw-back to British fast food. The feel is between wayside diner and bed & breakfast.

with braised lentils and mushrooms -26