May 17: Hopgood Foodliner ★★
As Toronto goes west the craziest eats pop up in unsuspecting corners. On one corner of Roncesvalles Avenue, across from shrub-infested houses is “Foodliner” in neon lights, all-caps. It’s a half an hour away from the city-centre, a bad-word in these anti-establishmentarian parts. Enroute, Toronto Life and the Globe and Mail have all raved about the maritime-inspired cooking. But the food was a step back from the pictures. The garnish for the bacon-wrapped scallops was not more than a shrimp cocktail sauce; the Triscuits for the crab dip was playful but not entirely worth $18. The tuna was a happy surprise, at least when the eggplant wasn’t overly sour. The green onion, cayenne pepper and almond purée together reminded of Mexico and not Nova Scotia. And the dish that has people talking, a maritime interpretation of the Donair served on a paper bag, drenched in super-sweet condensed milk tasted more like a dessert.
Halifax Donairs 14
Hot Crab Dip & Triscuits 15
Bacon-Wrapped Scallops 18
Ultra-Rare Albacore Tuna, Almonds, Eggplant 22