Oslo has the distinction of bearing no significance until recent history. In 1850, it had a measly population of 30,000 and grew only to 230,000 by 1900. Its fame derives from its recent discovery of oil, leading to its becoming the premier city in the world for standard of living and cost of living. It is the Middle East of Europe but it has not been complacent. It recognizes that the oil will dry and it must develop sustainable industries. Its oil-support and shipbuilding industries are the best in the world.
An Island near Oslo
Royal Palace, Oslo
Skansen
It is a painfully expensive city to live in. A can of coke at the store costs 25 NOK ($5); an unspectacular croissant is 32 NOK ($6). Transfers from the airport are 160 NOK ($29) and a single-ride bus ticket is 30 NOK ($5). The young and hip sip one of the 14 microbrewery beers on tap (they must sip, else pay a fortune) at Grünerløkka Brygghus for around 69 NOK ($13). It is in the Thorvald Meyers Gate working-class area. To keep your shirt on, refrain from alcohol in Nordic countries. They have a history of prohibition and then exorbitant taxes that give drunkards headaches. Also, the Oslo Pass (220 NOK = $40) is useful. It includes a day pass to the transit system, the ferries to the islands and all museums worth seeing.
Oslo is the cross-section of idyllic nature-scapes and culturally relevant museums. A short ferry ride out to the peninsula reveals a bucolic, pristine land of ice and snow. It could be the set of Game of Thrones (which is actually filmed in Iceland).On the islands nearby, most famously the Hovedøya Island, rocks like sleeping giants have eye-popping monopoly-houses jutting out at varied elevations and at awkward angles. A plane ride reveals a sparsely inhabited Norway where the first signs of spring are showing through. The melting ice in the rivers are like aged porcelain that crack randomly yet uniformly with time.
The museums everywhere are a testament to this rich country’s newfound interest in the arts. Munch and Ibsen, the most famous figures of the insignificant Norway of their times, are prominently displayed. The National Gallery has a room with Munch’s Madonna and The Scream. It also showcases The Thinker and rooms of works by famous impressionists. The Ibsen museum is a neglected reconstruction of the famous playwright’s former home across from the palace. Guided tours, which generally leave on the hour, connect the writer’s abode to his subject and to his themes. On the peninsula: the Norsk Folkemuseum is an open air trip through history with a domineering, dark toned church; the Kon-Tiki museum showcases the eponymous raft that journeyed across the oceans. A few more sights to quickly glance at are the Royal Palace, Opera with a sloping and accessible roof and Vigeland Sculpture Park.
Oro Bar
300 NOK, 3 course lunch
The food is overly expensive. So the cheaper offsprings of notable restaurants present a compelling compromise between price and quality. Michelin approved good-value restaurant Oro Bar (offspring of former 1-star Oro) is modern-chic with bar-like tables from which well-to-do patrons casually drink overpriced wine. The bread is served with some extension of the yellowy Swedish sauce with hints of curry; it is to die for. The cauliflower soup adorned by shaves of chorizo had a muted bitterness that delivered full body. The Norwegian Salmon with dill smelt like plane food; instead it was a perfectly cooked bastion of freshness in a sweet squash purée. But most impressive were the pebbles of pomegranate that itself regulated the baseness of the fish. Unfortunately, the three specks of chocolate that were “dessert” were unacceptable and derailed the entire meal. At Lille B (offspring of Bagatelle), DIY combinations included one of tuna and saffron risotto. The risotto was rich and colourful. Further inspection revealed a piece of shrimp hidden in the middle, a happy lagniappe. Four thickly sliced medallions of tuna on arugula justifies the 200 NOK ($36) price tag if it had not tasted intolerable. The idea was to make a sour vinaigrette for the arugula which would soak the tuna in citrusy goodness but the result was a bland mush. The lady beside me asked for salt. I asked for balsamic vinegar.
Lille B (closed)
200 NOK for tuna & saffron risotto
So the food in Oslo can be better, not least so that it can justify the sky-high rates it goes for. Yet the overall experience in the city was resoundingly positive. There is a culture of mutual respect to one and all, regardless of place. People expect the best from one another. The honour system is widespread: passes on ferries and trains are loosely checked; coffee service has jars on the side for payment; I flew to Stockholm without getting out my passport.
Cracked Ice, Oslo
Concert Hall, Stockholm
Stockholm is the more sophisticated cousins of the burly Vikings. Their stately squares have concert halls (where the Nobel Prize is presented) and royal residences, both of which have excellent guided tours, are the result of its power in the 17th century when it conquered half of the Holy Roman Empire in the Thirty Years' War. It has a richer history, and therefore the city is noticeably older than Oslo. Today, Sweden is far from a world power, but is has good hockey teams and furniture. Its economy, like its Nordic neighbours, is also thriving.
It is also noticeably less expensively than Norway because its currency is 10% weaker. But the Stockholm card (which is worth getting) is a painful $100, and includes all museums and a two-day pass on the transit system. In the winter, the short days are mirrored by flimsy business hours (closings at 3pm – 5pm), meaning some rigorous planning is necessary. One simple half-day trip is to Djurgården, a nature-filled island a stone-throw away from city centre. Cross-country skiers glide through the melting snow. It is a common equation in an otherwise distinguished land of half-frozen rivers, moribund trees and expansive plains. Start with the museums on the east (Nordic Museum, Vasa Museum, and whatever in that area that floats your boat), then cross through Skansen, an open-air historical museum to get to Rosendals Trädgård. Beside greenhouses with exotic plants is one filled with picnic tables. A healthy layout of desserts is a splendid sight after much weary trekking. A small kitchen serves hearty fare to a predominantly Swedish clientele. Today, most people seem to be transfixed on a dark orange tomato soup but I went for a sprawling brisket. Despite the meat, vegetables so fresh that they might have been grown in situ defined the meal. For once, skin-on carrot actually tasted good. The final stop on the island is Thielska Galleriet, a boutique art gallery that currently has an exposition on Munch. Other museums to consider are the Swedish History Museum for a quick brush-up on Nordic history, Fotografiska for a display of some great and not-so-great photographs and the Hallwyl Museum, an attempt to make historical fashions edgy (undergarments and all are showcased).
Pelikan
180 SEK for meatballs
Illums Bolighus has intriguing knickknacks reminiscent of Swedish design; just don’t tell anyone it’s based on Copenhagen. Also, walk down old town to get to Sodermalm and take a view of the main island from the Northern coast.
Rosendals Trädgård
200 SEK for main and dessert
The food in Stockholm is a far leap from the dollar breakfasts at IKEA. The meatballs at Pelikan (180 SEK) are fifteen times more expensive but were a juicy delight to chew through. Go early, lest wait an hour for the table. For something more formal, Ulla Winbladh is a cottage-like signpost on Djurgården island that serves traditional Swedish fare with an innovative spin (2 courses at 335 SEK). To start sashimi bass in a beautifully light and tangy mayo; on top, crispy bacon, herbs and fish roe. Then, veal medallions on a red wine vinegar reduction. The results were fine but the bass was a bit salty (like many things in these parts) and the veal tasted as did many that came before it.
Ulla Winbladh
335 SEK for 2 courses
The espresso bars also tend more towards the English standard of crispy lattes on trendy wooden bar tables. At Kaffebrenneriet (Oslo), the latte comes in a bowl, allowing for the art to stretch into a beautifully enlarged heart. At Mellqvist Kaffebar (Stockholm), trendy patrons sit on bar stools to sip lattes with asparagus topped bars. Decaf is still difficult in these parts, as grinds are taken from a cheap grinder.
Kaffebrenneriet
Mellqvist Kaffebar
The Nordic countries are expensive but so would be the Eurozone had its currency not collapsed. With the high price comes a prevailing sense of quality in every corner. Flying out of the distant Ryanair airport of Skavsta, my 90 minute bus ride had uninterrupted 3G service. Free wifi was on the plane trip from Oslo to Stockholm. A pervasive calmness takes over. Three brawny men sat beside me at lunch and talked in hushed voices in an ever-so composed manner. Arguing and rowdiness is strongly disreputable. In a world full of shouting, brinksmanship and acting, much can be learnt from the Nordics.