Another fabled matriarch of historic Italy, this culturally and financially rich centre is far removed from the sketchiness that pervades the rest of the country. City-centre, north of the river Arno, is a culturally rich version of Milan, with the same grandiosity. South, hilly roads weave through gardens and churches, providing for an awesome view of Florence centre. Behind the fantastical domes and ostentatious displays, villas pop out of the mountains of the distant landscape. Florence is a feast for the eyes.
View from Villa Bardini Gardens
A focal point for the city is its museums. They are expensive, but worth it. Start with Michelangelo’s statue of David at the Galleria dell’Accademia (16€ with line skip, reserve in advance if possible). It is a gargantuan, gorgeous sculpture in a domed room made precisely for that purpose. It is the most awe-inspiring spectacle of Florence. Another place with unconscionable lines is the Uffizi Gallery, which showcases the Birth of Venus and some Caravaggio masterpieces (16€ with reservation, reserve in advance if possible). The collection is the direct result of the wealth of the Medici family, who created the first banking empire and used the wealth to collect rare pieces of art. For something less crowded, the Museo Nazionale del Bargello (5€) also showcases a solid collection.
View from Piazzale Michelangelo
The views of the city are world-class, maybe better than the ones in Budapest or Prague. Piazzale Michelangelo, Basilica di San Minato al Monte and the Villa Bardini Gardens (10€) all offer a breathtaking sight after a rigorous walk. The Giotti clock tower, a standalone tower beside the Duomo, gives a compelling 360-degree bird’s eye view.
View of South Side of Arno River
Food is cheap and tasty. At Il Latini, patrons line up for the 7:30pm seating. They are quickly ushered in to tables already loaded with bread and wine. The wine is charged per glass, estimated by a scribbling bean-counter based on the volume remaining in the glass. Perfectly salted prosciutto-on-melon fly out of the cold-cut station (6€). A cylinder of salami is ominously large. Pastas (8€) come immediately, hearty and fully flavoured. The cheap prices and sociable waiters let customers lose themselves in the food. All pretentions are dissolved at the door; go to Il Latini to let your guard down. The total bill came to 35€ for two. It was the most fun dining experience of exchange. At Ristorante Buca San Giovanni, an underground wine-cellar come restaurant, fresh half-balls of buffalo mozzarella and lightly cooked tomato garnish an eggplant strudel (11€). Gnocchi in a slightly sour sauce is 9€.
Il Latini
35€ for two
View from Clock Tower
An hour and a half north, Verona is a smaller but architecturally similar city. It is also imbued with a copious mix of culture and beauty. As a stopover between Florence and Salzburg, I managed to fill an hour with a trip to Juliet’s house (from the Shakespearean tragedy) and a meal at Osteria Al Duca (Romeo’s house; 20€ lunch for 2 courses with wine). It was a fine last look at Italy before heading off.
Train Ride Through Alps
The North of Italy is vastly different from the south. When it unified in 1861, the North was hesitant about taking on the debts of the south, as is the problem in the European Union today. The mountainous landscapes, rich history and culture and beautiful cities make for world-class destinations and respectable living space unadulterated by the grimy nonchalance that infects the south. The peninsula has a fantastic range of sights and could make for a well-rounded trip on its own.