Nice, Cannes, Bordeaux, Versailles and other Regions of France

Paris is France and France is Paris. The two are essentially the same. Paris accounts for over half of the country's economic output and is by far the largest city by population. Many of the stereotypes of French inexplicability has nothing to do with the Italian-like consistently-tardy southerners of Provence, or the Anglophiles of Brittany, or the hardy no-nonsense beer guzzlers of the East, or the always-smiling wine growers of Bordeaux. But these other stereotypes don't matter because Paris is France and France is Paris. And when a city is as notoriously famous and unparalleled in scope, it has the right to be a bit cocky.

That doesn't mean the rest of France isn't worth a visit. Together they can hardly compete with Paris. Each of the following cities can be reliably done in one day. Train is the best way to get to all of these places. But make sure you book your tickets well in advance, lest pay exorbitant prices. Also, away from Paris, English is sparse. French is helpful at most museums.

Versailles

​Chateau Versailles

Take line C out to Chateau Versailles (Rive Gauche) or Versailles – Chantiers. If you’re going to see one royal palace in Europe, this is it. The palaces of the other royal families of Europe would be stables at Versailles. 

Bordeaux

​On Tap Wine @ Max Bordeaux

A 3-hour bullet train from Paris takes travelers to the most famous wine country in the world. But the city didn't live up to its name until a modernization project revitalized the coastline and transit system. A weary venture out to the suburbs has a Michelin star hidden for 25€ (La Cape). Then another irksome voyage takes you to some eerie warehouses turned to unconventional haute-art displays. One garage was filled with piles of junk so whether "art" was loosely interpreted was up for question. More important, at Max Bordeaux, fill up a card with 25€ and go absolutely wild. 25mL range from 0.50-25€ (bottles range from 10-700€. this is probably your only opportunity to try such expensive wines. Then have another glass with cheese and charcuterie at Le Bô Bar

La Cape

25€, 3 courses

Lille

A 30-minute ride from Paris with the Palais des Beaux Arts is all the rage. It has a manageable cross-section of French and European art including Rodin's sculpture with the twisted neck, also seen in Stockholm. Get cheese and charcuterie at La Cave Jacques Dumas and a beer at La Capsule in the Belgian tradition.

Nantes

It is 2 hours away nested deep in the Loire valley. Apparently the train ride is scenic (as is the bike ride if you so choose) but I missed it, arriving and leaving in the dead of night. The real sight here is the Château des ducs de Bretagne which has an excellent display of the World Wars (from a French perspective, a side rarely considered since histories are written by the victors) and a history of the city. Avoid Les Machines de l'île. It's a bit childish. To eat, Le Duo is “cheap and cheerful” option for lunch, as one commentator described.

Monaco

The petit casino and outdated architecture aren't what it is talked up to be. 

Cannes

It doesn't really feel like France as it is dominated by tourists and foreign brands that cater to the rich and famous who come for the various shows at the Palais. Tonight, it's a fashion show; next month, the famed film festival. A line of restaurants, mostly Italian, are reasonably priced and have menus posted outside for your scrutiny. 

Antibes

An odd triangle that juts out into the Mediterranean is a perfect viewing spot for the surrounding cities but it itself is a bit run down. The Picasso museum is worth visiting though. 

Nice

​Nice, view from chateau

As Italy encroaches, the values change. Punctuality, for example, is blatantly disregarded. One bus to Èze decided not to show up. Another was 40 minutes late. When asked a Frenchmen, he replied it's raining. Nevertheless, Nice is a sight to behold. From the Avenue of the Americas with its panoramic views of the Mediterranean to the Chateau (Castle Gill) with its panoramic views of the city, the menu of sights are plentiful. The best museum is the Chagall museum, a Russian-Jewish painter of the 20th century, twice-exiled and said (by Picasso) to be the master of colour.  

Keisuke Matsushima

The search for Michelin stars takes us to Provence for a reasonably priced three-courses at the restaurant of the Japanese Chef of the French School, Keisuke Matsushima, who comes out to receive you after the meal. The patronage is a largely oriental and often Japanese speaking. The purée in urchin shell is a sight to behold, and easy to swallow.  The risotto in a buttery cream had crispy thin-cut leeks and a ring of pea juice that is incredibly fun to clean up. The fish was a bit oppressed by the olive juice and had an uncertain bitterness that dulled the senses. The puff pastry shattered on contact and only repaired by the soft lob of caramel ice cream. By culinary standards, it was a reasonable if formulaic. But slow and forgetful service failed to live up the Michelin standard as proudly alluded to in its bathroom decorations.

43€, 3 courses

Risotto
Ombrine grillé, artichauts épneux sautée à cru, riquettes, olives noir de Taggiasca, jus de diable (Umbrine)

Mille feuille

Flaveur

A small chunk of lamb is so tasty it requires the utmost rationing. Thankfully, there is a most delightful mushed eggplant topped with chickpeas and raisins. This favourite vegetable of the Italians is pulverized beyond recognition to act as sauce together with a laddle with a sweet marsala that runs capriciously through the contours of the eggplant.

28€, main and some snacks

Selle d’Agneau du Quercy laqué au tandoori / Aubergine au feu de bois /

Pressé d’épaule aux herbes fraîches / Jus corsé au masala (lamb, eggplant, herbs, marsala)

Chat Blanc Chat Noir

This tiny, dark restaurant in the old part of Nice is run by some wonderfully charismatic and hilarious restaurateurs. It takes us on a trip of its own. The Italian influences are sublime: the dish of small fish resembled the poignant salads of Rome. The generous cuts of tuna soaked up the lentil and olive oil for a definitively Niçoise dish. And finally, deliciously rich fois gras on toast is as French as it gets.

10€ for appetizers, 20€ for mains

Le Bistrot de la Marine

Michelin starred chef Jacques Maximin retires in Cagnes-sur-Mer at a seaside restaurant a a few minutes outside of Nice. The patio is sunny and great for people watching (namely beach-loving pedestrians). The food is ridiculously overpriced because the normal 25€ formule was unavailable. That the French can put a cheap menu on a website and not have it is tantamount to a bait-and-switch, especially when the restaurant is as out of the way as this one. Admittedly, the fish is resoundingly fresh. But in a bouillabaisse, the flavours aren’t as salient.

45€, three courses