That the country was the recipient of three bailouts is barely noticeable until you dig a bit deeper. On the surface, the new subway cars stop at new subway stations. Google maps is well integrated. A lot of the architecture is ugly concrete blocks but a lot are redeeming. But troubles show through. The busses are either early or late but never on time. There is an inherent laziness or, rather, non-chalance that is unnerving. Restaurants are open around the clock but museums are parks close at 3pm. One desperate bar owner lured me in (I'm terrible at saying no) by telling me to come drop by that night, then proceeded to sell me orange juice (which I would've accepted had it been freshly squeezed). Upon my refusal, his next tactic was to send a good-looking waitress my way. When I said I wasn't thirsty, she asked me to buy her a drink.

Another solicitation arose from Greek Jehovah's Witnesses who spoke Chinese better than I. It is surely a helpful language to know to lure in the helpless migrants who can't speak English and want to feel included. It was a good chance to practice my Mandarin though. For the longest time I had no idea what they were attempting to do. I don't really know what Jehovah's Witnesses are other than that it's an extreme cult of Christianity, let alone how to say it in Mandarin. Needless to say they were surprised by my English or as they called it "Ko Yin" (accent).

That it is a poor country can be witnessed by the brand-new Areos hotel that cost 40€ a night or the feast you can buy for 20€. A carafe (25mL) of wine was 3€.

A SIM card for 11€ comes with 500mb, one of the best deals in the eurozone. An innovative idea that appeared in the letters of The Economist was that should Greece drop out of the euro, it should change completely to a mobile-phone currency. It then eliminates the tax evasion that brought the country to a standstill.

The way to manage the odd operating hours in Athens is to hold off on lunch until after 3pm. Then, on one day, you can reliably do the historical sights (flagshipped by the acropolis and the new acropolis museum) then do a trio of museums (benaki, Byzantine and Cycladic). They are all more or less free. The acropolis is indeed as grand as proclaimed. This homage to the patron-goddess of the city, Athena, is the focal point of Athens. It is quite the climb. Like the heroic defenders who spilt blood to defend the holy monument, I did as well though of a less courageous variety. I had been afflicted with the most unconscionable nose bleeds, maybe because of the altitude or the dry weather.

Some of the best moments of the city comes from strolling the vender-filled pedestrian streets. The flea markets near Monastiraki are particularly boisterous. Some subterranean shops have sharply decline staircases that induce the most severe claustrophobia. Most things are overpriced and bargaining is expected. I purchased a 14€ item for 10€. She said it was already marked down and I was happy with the price she quoted. I am not much of a bargainer, clearly.

If time permits, go to Mount Hymettus to prance around age-old monetaries and torn down basilicas. The views are worth the trip. (Take the 224 bus to the terminus stop, then walk up the hill). Then go to the other side of town to the harbor city of Piraeus. Walking down the habour gives you a feel of how desperate the Greeks really are. After a few steps another restaurateur asks you to dine at his deserted location. Still they are quite principled and directed me to my intended destination: Ammos restaurant for some seafood grub. For 18€, 500mL of wine, a Greek Salad, deep fried zucchini and mussels. I was certain they calculated the bill incorrectly so I tipped the waiters grandly.

The Greeks are still a prideful race. One security guard at the Acropolis screamed whole-heartedly to bring down a waver of a foreign flag. When asked what was the offending flag, he said that it didn’t matter. The only flag allowed at the Acropolis was that of Greece. A taxi driver (who gave me a 50€ taxi ride for the price of 10€) blamed the problems of Greece on politicians, bankers and immigrants. Until Greece becomes disillusioned, they will remain the sick man of Europe.