Dubai literally rose from the dessert, an uncanny resemblance to Isaiah legend. It is a palatable gateway into the Middle East, a scary and unsettling region not for the faint of heart. In the summer, it is characterized by the most scorching heat, often flirting with the mid forties and dipping to a humid mid thirties at night. Being outside for any protracted amount of time is untenable. Thankfully, the unmanned Dubai metro, which links the airport with all the important buildings along the coast, is now complete. This engineering marvel, following much in the city’s other splendors, allows effortless transportation without ever leaving an air-conditioned space.

Dubai is probably best described as the Las Vegas of the Middle East, full of tourists and kitschy attractions (aquariums and fountains), buffets for breakfast, lunch and dinners. But it is also a stronghold of the ultra-rich. The Burg Al Arab, the famous sail-boat shaped hotel has gates and only allows guests and people with reservations inside (so get one to the Skyview bar, for a $100 entrance ticket). Otherwise ascend to the top of the tallest tower in the world, the Burg Kalifa. On a clear day, the views should be stunning; on most days, it’s a bit of a letdown ($35). But the main way to spend time in Dubai is to gallivant through the gigantic malls that resemble self-sustaining communities. The Mall of the Emirates has a ski slope (~$100 for a day pass), Dubai Mall has a skating rink and an aquarium. Window shopping is the touristy activity of choice. Take a look at the uncrowded shake shack, imported wholesale from Manhattan. Or go to the Armani café, situated near the Armani store. This glitzy part of the mall could be mistaken for a five-star hotel, or a modern art musuem. In one section, origami birds are suspended from the ceiling, regulating the lights that beam down from the skylights.

The best experience of Dubai is at the Dubai International Financial Centre. There is La Petite Maison, the 81st best restaurant in the world. We had met Raphael, the owner, at a tapas bar in San Sebastián; he was pleasantly surprised we had a reservation at his restaurant. La Petite Maison is an installation near an art district so it, itself, is beautifully adorned with modern paintings. Otherwise, the bright white interior is reminiscent of French luxury. Door-crashing is almost impossible as Dubai’s ultra-rich seem to have booked off this restaurant to themselves. I was kindly seated at the bar, which affords nice people-watching opportunities, though the smoking might be a turn-off. Safely in the hands of the maitre d’, I ordered some house specialties. Most notably, the buttery caprese salad made with luxurious burrata cheese tasted almost too good to be real. The stretchy cheese disintegrates in the mouth, letting out bursts of sweetness. I almost wish there were more tomatoes so I wouldn’t feel as guilty eating the cheese. Then, thinly sliced octopus arranged in a disk, topped with a sweet lemon dressing. Finally gargantuan, halved prawns are succulent in simple olive oil with herbs. The sunny radiance of the dishes and the utter simplicity is deeply reminiscent of Provencial cooking. Seafood, herbs and olive oil are expertly used in this Nice-inspired restaurant.

La Petite Maison

Burrata et Tomates 95
Burrata with Tomatoes and Basil

Poulpe Finement Tranchés 105
Thinly Sliced Octopus in Lemon Oil

Grosses Crevettes Grillées 135
Grilled Tiger Prawns

Haricots Verts 35
Green Beans

After, take a walk through the art district that showcases contemporary Middle Eastern and international artists. Hop quickly between air-conditioned rooms; the brief sweats are worth the often thoughtful exhibits.

But the novelty of the city wears off quickly. They’ve tried to bring the world to Dubai, but it’s rarely the real thing. The food is mostly unimpressive international fare, and painfully expensive. One iced tea I ordered, which was advertised as “original” was actually an artificial-lemon-flavoured iced tea that tasted like sugar syrup. Undrinkable. The actual city is an urban sprawl, unlike the dense Las Vegas. Unless you’re looking for tacky entertainment, the city fails to impress beyond its initial hurrah.