Iceland: Land of Fire and Ice

Many travelers have used Reykjavik as a stop over, and some have taken advantage of a lengthier layover. This island is best described as fantastical, as if it inspired Game of Thrones and Middle Earth. This small island inhabited by about 300,000 is home to breathtaking sights of nature that are capricious like the volcanic soils, changing in mere minutes. Close to fault lines, Iceland has the legendary Blue Lagoon where a soft blue-hued geothermal pool invites visitors from all over. The landscape reminds of the moon (not that I know what the moon looks like). It seems barren, jagged, black. Further away, near the Kerið volcanic crater, a Mars-red terrain is imposing and breathtaking. Other parts look like any beautiful site from Switzerland, with a trio of plains, mountains and lakes. The mountains are particularly picturesque, appearing more like plateaus that disappear into the clouds.

Harpa Concert Hall

Þingvellir national park

The most popular travel option is to take a full day tour around the “golden circle”. See fault lines between the North Atlantic and North American plates, the reason for the volcanic activity, at Þingvellir national park, home to the largest lake in Iceland. See steaming water shoot out at in Geysir area (from which comes the English word Geysir). Most popular on the route is the two-tiered waterfall “Gullfoss” or golden waterfall. Walking into the fantastical mist is like going through the looking glass and coming out in another world. For a full “circle”, go to Faxi waterfall, Skálholt (a church), the Kerið volcano crater and end with a look at the thermal energy production facility at Hellisheiðarvirkjun. This round trip takes about 7-8 hours to complete. In the evening, the Blue Lagoon clears up a little and is transformed from a squishy public swimming pool to the relaxing spa that it advertises itself to be. Around the perimeter, there are little spa stations where you can smudge tar on your face. The views of the moon-like surface nearby is quite special and unlike the other hot springs of this world. Private showers are available.

Blue Lagoon

The best way to see all of this is to rent a car (~15000 or $135 a day, gas is about twice the normal price). Otherwise go on a guided tour (~10000 a person).

Reykjavik itself is quite condensed, with major sites easily walk-able. As a city of 200,000 should be, there is not too much to do, though it certainly punches above its weight. It is difficult to think of another small city having such a substantial art gallery (Hafnarhus), history museum (National Museum), a Van Rohe winning concert hall (Harpa), and an evil looking church (Hallgrimskirkja). Shopping opportunities embody standard Nordic products that exemplify utilitarian style.

Forrettabarinn

Options for food and drinks are notably strong as well. The finest food is at Forrettabarinn, where both duck and fowl are lusciously pink and adorned with the tastiest condiments (~2000 a course). This restaurant could easily make the top 100 list. Then, for some ethically problematic but culturally sacrosanct dining, have horse and whale at Grillmarkadurinn (~2000 a starter, ~5000 for main). The drink of choice in Iceland is beer, where the price never dips below 1000 ISK. At MicroBar, which feels more like a Hotel lounge than a bar, a flight of five can be had for 2500 ISK. Or go to the groovier Kaldi Bar. A pint is about 1100 ISK.

Grillmarkadurinn

Iceland follows Nordic culture, which relies on the goodwill and common sense of individuals instead of ordained law. There is unobstructed entry into public transportation and checks are infrequent (compared to most places, where there are gates as well as checks). There are no attendants at the doors of museums, as if it were a free exhibit. Some museums don’t even issue tickets. At closing time, no one ushers you out – it’s expected that you know when the museum closes and will see yourself out. This is, of course, the idealization of society, and very few societies can ever reach this level of tolerance and still function properly. But Iceland is able to.