At the newly minted speakeasy of a restaurant, Dinnertable, there is one excellent wine. It is a $80 Chardonnay from a Jura. A complete steal. It has the trapezoidal bottle shape of the Jura, and the yellow wax enclosure at the top. It is not vin jaune, but it obviously is not burgundy. It's somewhere in the middle. It wasn't likely to be burgundy if it was advertised biodynamic, all these other clues were only incremental. But of course the waitress insisted it was burgundy. The bottle came and in block letters, it read "JURA". I would have thought the issue was this was a hipster joint where service was the fun-loving beer-drinking liberal who deigned to know any wine region outside of the locality (by the way they had fewer than 10 bottles of wine). But then in Paris, the Mecca of wine, a server offered me Morgon, of which I replied "ahh Beaujolais", of which he disputed vociferously. Of course Beaujolais is one of the easiest wines to identify, and this Morgon tasted and smelt like Beaujolais, as most if not all Morgon is indeed Beaujolais. The exception is the random winery somewhere else who has a winemaker who happens to be named Morgon.