It is from Spring, a Randwalk recommended Parisian restaurant opened by an American, where James Henry derives much of his inspiration. Half-cut radishes are allowed to be themselves, dipped simply into a “nettle butter” that resembles some middle-eastern slaw. The raw fish is like the sea bass dish from Spring, though it lacks any real flavour. It is from Au Passage that Henry gets a prevailing sense of simplicity. Asparagus with goat cheese and breadcrumbs. It’s slight and savoury; and the crumbs add much needed texture. It feels like warm farm-to-table cuisine and succeeds. Then there is the blue rare beef, aged 48 days and paired with charred romaine. A spread of anchovy as sweet as roasted garlic adds a bit of sophistication. A luscious Barbara d’Alba that was at its peak (after five years of aging). The meal was not without its faults. Some dishes erred on flavourlessness; the Aglianico was tart; the general presentation needed more work. Actually, most of the wine pairings could have been notched up a bit. But you could get over it easily. Like the soft poached potatoes with clams that could have easily been an appetizer at a 3-star restaurant. Or the gateau-basque-style almond tart with a side of goat milk sorbet, served with some old Spanish digestif. Which leads us to the most interesting dish of the night - a head cheese – black pudding combination that was midway between meat and paste. There were more than a few highlights of the dinner. It is difficult to be exciting in a world where a chef can be ferried in from Paris, or Australia. This dinner manages to be impressive despite all the jet-lag and unfamiliarity that comes with a pop-up kitchen.
This dinner is a part of Charlie Burger’s pop-up restaurant series, where famous chefs are invited to cook for a select group of foodies. This dinner occurred on Victoria Day, 2015 at Peter Pan.
$235 per person, all included.
Apéritif
Falanghina, Camporeale, Lunarossa, 2013, Campania, Italy
Amuse bouche
Terrine
Radishes, nettle butter
Raw fish, turnips
Steamed oyster
Champagne Charlie Burger, Rosé, Oger, France
Asparagus
ramps, bottarga
Fernao Pires, Porta de Teira, Ninfa Branco, 2012, Tejo, Portugal
TBD course
James Henry wants explore Canadian ingredients and feature something fun & seasonal
Aglianico, Camporeale, Lunarossa, 2013, Campania, Italy
Blood cake
peas, broad beans
Granata, Barranco Oscuro, 2010, Granada, Spain
Aged beef
romaine, anchovy
Barbara d'Alba, La Cresta, D.O.C, Roche Dei Manzoni, 2010, Piedmont, Italy
Almond tart
goat milk sorbet, wild strawberries
30 year-old Oloroso, Bodegas Tradicion, Jerez, Spain (older than some of our guests)