On a train, somewhere in Paris, I browsed Toronto's best new restaurants with a jealous eye and a hungry stomach. My summer food-romps have very much centred around rectifying the wrong of attending only one of the top ten. The next nine followed, some easier than others; some costlier too. The top ten all share a sense of purpose and discontent for the same-old. Some were better at subverting the rule. It looks like the best were the middling restaurants (Farmhouse, Grove, JaBistro), all receiving five stars for their smart and cuisine-leading menus. The top fared poorly: Shoto and Daisho were both disappointments; so was Hopgood Foodliner. Although Toronto Life knows how to pick the top 10, its order is suspect.