Summerlicious '13 - First Weekend Summary
Summerlicious '13 - 17 restaurants in 17 days
This year, with only 17 spots, only the highest caliber restaurants have been selected. Five are repeats from last year. The rest are either a first for this blog or exciting new entrants. As last year, reviews of all restaurants will come out the day of (hopefully).
Summerlicious '13
Summerlicious '13 marks the genesis of this blog, at least in the form that it is in now. One year ago, I hurriedly made reservations at 34 restaurants, filling each lunch and dinner with a 3-course prix-fixe. Since then, restaurants have fallen off (Colborne Lane, notably) and tasty new participants have risen - most importantly, Splendido.
This year, the plans won't be as grand. It will be a surgical attempt to tie up the loose-ends and revisit the winners. Of the 5 five-stars last year, only three remain: Auberge du Pommier ★★★★★, Chiado ★★★★★, and Aria ★★★★★ - these definitely deserve your attention. A few new entrants at established locations are fomenting excitement: Café Boulud (★★★★), ONE ★★★★, Origin ★★★★.
Other names that popped on my perusal include:
Bosk (Menu) 25/45
Didier (Menu) 25/45
Lee Restaurant (Menu) /45
Noce /35
Nota Bene (Menu) 25/45
Nyood Restaurant (Menu) /35
Ocho Hotel (Menu) 15/25
And finally, a lunch at the poster-child of summerlicious, Canoe ★★★★, will be well worth it.
Below is a list of all randwalk-rated restaurants participating in summerlicious.
Toronto Restaurants Update: Yours Truly, JaBistro, Hopgoods, Acadia, Richmond Station
Thank you for helping www.randwalk.com become the 41st ranked blog in Toronto.
The post-Paris food scene didn't start off well. But it quickly turned with consistently good reviews.
- June 1: Richmond Station ★★★★
- May 31: Modus ★★★★
- May 30: Bannock ★★★★
- May 25: Bier Markt ★★★
- May 24: Volos (★★★)
- May 22: Gabardine ★★★★
- May 20: JaBistro ★★★★★
- May 19: Le Paradis ★★★★★
- May 17: Hopgood Foodliner ★★
- May 7: Fresh on Bloor ★★★
- May 3: Yours Truly ★★★★
- May 1: Acadia ★★
Food in Paris
Paris is as much a city of food as a city of lights. It seems like in every corner exists a café, a boulangerie, a brasserie or a bistro. That is to say there is no shortage of gastronomic temptations to deal with. There is a running joke that asks why French women are so skinny despite eating much bread and butter (and foie gras). The answer is because they drink a lot of red wine and smoke. If smoking is not for you, you’ll simply have to control yourself.
Food is not overly expensive. The bill is called “l’addition” perhaps because prices include tax and tip so the calculation is a simple sum of menu prices. This standard effectively nullifies the EURCAD conversion. Parisian prices can then simply be read as though they were Canadian for comparability. The overwhelming standard in Paris is the multi-course meal. It is odd that prix-fixe, a French word, is never used. Instead, a menu is a full course meal, generally ranging between 3 to 5 courses for a fixed price. They are about 20€ for lunch and 30€ for dinner. This is indeed rather cheap, considering similar offers are only seen in Toronto during summerlicious and winterlicious. A formule, on the other hand, is a lighter prix-fixe, and only includes two courses. This tradition is replicated in notable American-French restaurants like Café Boulud or Jean George Nougatine. Again, formules are generally inexpensive. Some (but not all) restaurants also have à la carte.
My first dabble into French restaurants was unsuccessful. An undirected surveying of the thousands of holes-in-the-walls is sure not to achieve pleasant results. As in any city, there is a range of culinary quality suited for a range of tastes. Not all Frenchmen are foodies, contrary to popular belief.
Furthermore, consulting solely the Michelin Guide is insufficient. The Michelin guide rewards a particular type of food that might be described as antiquated and boring. The Michelin standard is that of haute-cuisine, of formality and rigorous adherence to the culinary standards of the past. In many ways, Paris thrives on the vestiges of the past. It is behind in almost everything except subways and healthcare. But antiquated cuisine still has its place to play. Many restaurants from the Michelin guide have been delightful.
Le Cantine du Troquet
14th
01 45 40 04 98
32€ Lunch/Dinner Menu, 5 courses
Le Cantine du Troquet, for example, is tucked away in the outer ring of Paris and serves simple food from its blackboard menu in a relaxed atmosphere. There is no website and no reservations; even its telephone number is hard to find. The waiters speak only French. The appetizer came with five small plates, which I thought were the five courses of the menu. I was about to pay when the second course came. Most memorable of the five was a cauliflower soup that had little specks of chorizo scattered around. They had mostly sunk to the bottom, and ended up as a delicious scraping from the bottom of the barrel. The traditional five-course meal has fish thereafter, then meat, then salad and finally dessert. Unfortunately, primed by the American system, the salad just makes you want to start over. None of the dishes were extraordinary but worked well in an ensemble, further supported by the affordable price tag. Since it was a carte-blanche (i.e. the menu is a surprise), every visit is novel and since they describe the food in French, every bite might be surprising.
Septime
11th
01 43 67 38 29
www.septime-charonne.fr
Closed Monday lunch, Saturday and Sunday
Reservation required
55€ Dinner, 5 courses, carte blanche
There is a bit of a gastronomical revolution in Paris. Bistros and restaurants are replaced by ateliers (workshops) and comptoirs (counters). There is a modernization of food that is at odds with the traditional definition of haute-cuisine. This makes guides like Michelin less relevant; it implores you to go online to find some innovative options. Septime, for example, is solidly booked by a youthful clientele. They are ever so stingy about bookings that my spot was cancelled after they could not reach me on my phone (I had given them my Canadian number). They also had my email, but did not think of using that avenue; the French always surprise me with their listless nonchalance. I was stuffed into a claustrophobic corner, where I ate in silence beside an unsmiling Frenchman (it is decidedly French not to smile). Notwithstanding this, the five course meal (55€) was rather good, punctuated by a dessert as memorable as any. A luscious orange ice cream in the centre was surrounded by almost-frozen citrus fruits, crunchy candied sugar, buttery crème fraiche and other mouthwatering egg-shaped concoctions. That the chef was an artist by profession shows.
Les Cocottes
7th
http://www.maisonconstant.com/les-cocottes
No reservations, always open
Confit de foie gras de canard, pain de campagne 14€
Velouté de champignons de saison légèrement crémé 7€
Pommes de terre caramélisées farcies au pied de porc 15€
For some guilt-inducing richness, try Les Cocottes, by famed French chef Christian Constant; for some inexpensive haute-cuisine, walk down a dodgy 11th arrondissement path to behold the friendly and simple Au Passage.
Au Passage
11th
01 43 55 07 52
Dinner only Saturday; Closed Sunday
20€ Lunch, 3 courses + cheese plate
The average food in Paris is certainly good. But an affinity for the past and an aversion to risk-taking has made the culinary scene a bit dull. Integration and uniformity pervades the food but it is artistry and experimentation that I am looking for. The cuisine in Toronto is affordable, varied and thoughtful. I have been spoiled by that culinary wonderland. Paris might very well show its cards, but the Michelin guide is not it. We will see how the food turns as I explore further. I still have some high hopes.
Les Cailloux
13th
01 45 80 15 08
20€ lamb chops
L’auberge Aveyronnaise
12th
01 43 40 12 24
24€ Dinner, 3 courses
Le Soufflé
1st
01 42 60 27 19
10€ for a soufflé
Kingston Restaurant Guide: Le Chien Noir, Harpers and Aquaterra
This week, the restaurant guide continues with another list of notable restaurants. Le Chien Noir continues to lead the culinary scene in Kingston. Casa continues to fall.
Kingston Restaurant Guide: The Five Pillars of Kingston
An essentially comprehensive review. The five pillars of the Kingston food scene are Sima (Sushi), Woodenheads (Pizza), Le Chien Noir (French), Harpers (Burgers) and Olivea (Italian). They are each best-in-class and are world-class establishments that can compete against their Toronto equivalents. In the next few weeks, these five and many other Kingston restaurants will be reviewed in an effort for Random Walk to become the headline food blog for the Kingston area. I think this will be a fun and useful exercise.
12 New Restaurant Reviews (Toronto)
August was a busy month that many restaurant reviews were pushed back. Now, safely tucked in Kingston, I finally publish these post-summerlicious reviews. Deal-seekers will still find discounts for notable places. Centro, Aria, Célestin and Fifth Grill all had large-scale promotions. Aria continued to solidify its place as Toronto’s best new restaurant, while Fifth Grill and Centro continued to fall from their glory days. Yorkville continues to be a safe bet, with ONE and Crème Brasserie delivering notable eats at notable prices. And finally, Nervosa, the Yorville guru sets up a new shop in hipster’s paradise. It is Gusto 101 and will no doubt be heard from again and again.
(Bracketed ratings are for restaurants where fewer than three dishes have been sampled.)
Brassaii (★★)
I last ate at Brassaii only so that a thief could absquatulate with my dear bicycle. I returned this time more fortified in mind but mostly with a larger lock. Notwithstanding the unruly part of town, it is a comfortable enclave on King Street West. It aptly held the Monitor “Dean’s List Reception,” a.k.a. ‘recruiting event’. Indeed, this restaurant screams ‘Monitor’. The plaid-shirted representatives fit in so perfectly. I stayed behind after the session for dinner with non-Queen’s friends. The food is a confusing one-size-fit-all approach, a shotgun that doesn’t really hit the nouveau-riche French image it contends for. My pasta sat under parmesan, so gratuitously plopped on and concentrated in the centre. And the toppings, however unremarkable they were, came so infrequently that the whole dish tasted of monotony. For all the risks my poor bicycle was subject to, the reward just isn’t there.
Fifth Grill (★★★)
A hand-operated coal-mine elevator takes guests from the open (and surprisingly clean) club area up to a lofty boutique restaurant full of wood-tones and country-style décor. Our waitress was upbeat to the point of babbling ludicrousness, finishing long-winding tongue twisters in record time. She was an entertaining touch to this already eccentric experience. The food if could be described in one word would be bland. They were safe and uninspiring, though some citrusy flourishes were well founded in the salad and the chicken was well portioned. Altogether it was not an unsavory experience, much owing to the atmosphere, but it is no longer the Fifth Grill of Didier Leroy, Marc Thuet and J.P. Challet.
Carisma (★★★★)
Carisma on King & Church is a dark abode where time passes more slowly than its hectic surroundings. There is a solemn yet fantastical element respected by quietly whispering patrons. The charm is as simple as the waiter grating parmesan for a whole minute, patiently. The food is understated but grows with each bite. The peas seem so peasant-like but contribute a slight bitterness and single-handedly foment a silent uprising: it begins with oozing cherry tomatoes in a violent red, moves to the chewy mushrooms and ends with a chicken with tasty burn marks. It could have done without the olives, which overpowered each bite they participated in. But they can be easily identified and summarily exiled. Only halfway through the meal do you notice yourself entranced by the food and the atmosphere. What a fine escape from high finance.
In keeping with the tradition established during Summerlicious ’12, I will be giving ratings to restaurants I dine at. These ratings range from 1 to 5 stars and take into consideration food, service, atmosphere, price, etc. These ratings will be preliminary, or perfunctory for that matter (stars in brackets) until three items from the menu have been tasted (again, in the tradition of Summerlicious). You will still be best served reading the description instead of simply relying on a rating.
Trattoria Nervosa (★★)
It was fitting to dine at the sister store of Gusto for a direct comparison only one day apart. Nervosa is almost a fixture of Yorkville, an unpretentious trattoria with reasonable prices. Lines on a Wednesday night show the restaurant’s mass appeal. Diners are tightly seated in open-window room that forgoes air conditioning in favour of a desultory breeze. It’s a nice vantage out to the realm of the well-to-do, a wonderland of snazzy cars, sundresses and yellow-brick homes. With such a light-hearted atmosphere, it welcomes anyone looking for a quick bite. Unfortunately, the similarly playful service became too casual to bear. Unhearing, oblivious and brash waiters talk over diners and suggest clicking the “first one [button]” when allocating the tip (it was 15%, a few percentage points too generous for the rude performance). The primavera pizza is a favourite but managed to be slightly soggy and thus not ‘spring-like’ at all. This was an unfortunate occurrence; every restaurant has its bad day.
In keeping with the tradition established during Summerlicious ’12, I will be giving ratings to restaurants I dine at. These ratings range from 1 to 5 stars and take into consideration food, service, atmosphere, price, etc. These ratings will be preliminary, or perfunctory for that matter (stars in brackets) until three items from the menu have been tasted (again, in the tradition of Summerlicious). You will still be best served reading the description instead of simply relying on a rating.
Gusto 101 (★★★)
This King Street West outgrowth of Yorkville’s Nervosa is a bustling forum for suited professionals and hipsters alike. Both Gusto and Nervosa are easy-going but Gusto is a flamboyant ‘joint’, not unlike a rowdy bar to Nervosa’s café feel. A harsh industrial tone surrounds this up-and-coming neighbourhood. The waiters are dressed in t-shirts and jump hurriedly between flirtatious couples (of all ages). It is so edgy and noisy that conscientious food tasters might quickly become disoriented. The food is similarly forward. My rustic-inspired order was a tripartite of spice-crusted chicken, roasted potato and sautéed spinach. Big flavours vie for dominance on a miniscule plate but it is the perfectly cooked quarter chicken, cut-through as nonchalantly as the rest of the dish that takes prominence. And the commotion continues in your mouth as the Moroccan spices dissolved so richly into the skin hit higher and higher notes. The potatoes and spinach serve as a palate cleanser, a mute to this cacophony. The entire experience is numbing and even unbecoming at times. But it serves a purpose. It is welcome sometimes, just not all the time.
In keeping with the tradition established during Summerlicious ’12, I will be giving ratings to restaurants I dine at. These ratings range from 1 to 5 stars and take into consideration food, service, atmosphere, price, etc. These ratings will be preliminary, or perfunctory for that matter (stars in brackets) until three items from the menu have been tasted (again, in the tradition of Summerlicious). You will still be best served reading the description instead of simply relying on a rating.
Recognized by Biff's Waiters (and perhaps Maitre D')
I am ever so flattered to have been welcomed to Biff's by waiters who knew of this Summerlicous blog and slightly embarrassed to have only given it three stars. Oh, Biff's...you have truly inflated an undeserved ego and encouraged more glutinous behavior (I say that with an unabashed grin). I returned three times since Summerlicious, if not for the food, then to solidify my goodwill toward Summerlicious participants. Biff’s has a wonderful “buck per shuck” promotion, that is, every oyster costs only $1. They start the oyster countdown at 5pm (they have either 500 or 800, depending on the day of the week, I believe). The first two times, I went too late. Tonight, I ordered the octopus salad and snuck in an order for six oysters. The reprise was very good, making clear Biff’s culinary aptitude notwithstanding the Summerlicious showing. And for $26, the dinner was a steal not unlike last time.
Le Paradis
I have seldom been so impressed by a restaurant. Le Chien Noir has met is match in Toronto. Like Chien Noir, Le Paradis is homely, undiscovered and well-priced. Its unassuming character (it is situated a few steps away from a “Le Subway”) is what gives it its charm; it’s sufficiently close to Yorkville but far enough to lose the fancy cars and Justin Biebers (he was apparently at the Hazelton, adolescent girls adding to the fanfare).
The waitresses speak French and have no reservations of correcting mispronunciations of the menu. They also don’t lose the efficiency and slight air of pretentiousness that characterises Paris’ bistros…wonderful. In fact, French seems to be the language choice among the patrons. (I only found out it’s Le Paradis and not La Paradis because our neighbour said “Au Paradis” into his phone).
The food is fantastic. They have recently changed to printing menus daily. The way the French make steak-frites should really make ubiquitous steakhouse chains think twice. They have reduced it to a formula: a microwaved bun, a Caesar salad covered in bacon, Parmesan and heavy dressing (that has been sitting in a bottle for a year), and finally, a ridiculously thick piece of meat accompanied by either super-crunchy fries or a potato with mounds of cheddar, butter and sour crème. $40.
The steak-frites at Paradis sat in a tasty but not heavy peppercorn sauce. The sirloin was the proper size and texture. It was pan-fried, not grilled and properly seasoned. The fries were done right: thin, firm and in thyme. My lamb shank literally fell off the bone and was similarly light and tasty. The chickpeas in its tastelessness balanced the other flavors well.
In previous occasions, I have had the pork chop and the chicken, all under $20. The chicken was sizable. The pork chop was as good as pork can ever be.
As much as I would like this place to become more notable, I am also cognizant that its charm also originates from being hidden from the masses. It lets you be transported to a place far from home. I have a hope that this is what Paris might turn out to be in 2013.
Gabardine
Gabardine tries to transport tightly wound and weary eyed bankers to more passive times. The tiny outpost on Bay Street is an anachronism to the nearby high-rise towers and high-octane bars and grills. The name refers to the tight fabric found on Burberry coats; the references to the industrious working class of Great Britain are uncanny (ploughman’s lunch - $17). The waitresses dress in eccentric, flowery dresses and some are nicer than others. I had the sautéed bc black cod with braised lentils and mushrooms ($24). The lentil sauce is unapologetically flavorful and glazes the delicate black cod. Other menu items are less pricey and less healthful, as a throw-back to British fast food. The feel is between wayside diner and bed & breakfast.
The bottom line @ Parts & Labour
The bike ride over was an experience in itself. The neighborhood scene became sketchier as the journey progressed, accented by the occasional druggie or eccentric in true Queen's Street West West style. P&L fits well here but has a fine-food flourish which helps to gentrify the neighbourhood. Parts & Labour is where (well-off) hipsters meet at communal tables. The drinks menu and devils on horseback fit the occasion perfectly. The steak-frites were most certainly out of place.
The excitement with P&L originates with the raving reviews from Toronto Life. It is a 2 star restaurant (Colborne Lane is 1.5!) and a top 10 summerlicious restaurant. Furthermore, the prospect of leaving behind Bay Street to venture into the wild west had an adventurous appeal. Unfortunately, I was a fish out of water and foolishly ordered the steak-frites to assuage myself. The steak was essentially tasteless. The bottom line is that hipsters didn't know what to do with such a grandiose filet of beef.
1H12 (First Half of Summer) Report: Generally Good
Halfway through my 18 week summer (and internship) and things are certainly looking up. At a neighborhood Italian restaurant, someone remarked how most people would only come here ‘on occasion.’ My review of Ciao Wine Bar, on OpenTable, was positive but rather subdued. “Average” is clearly in the eye of the beholder:
“A rather non-pretentious restaurant in a rather pretentious neighborhood (ONE is across the street) makes for a comfortable and chatty food experience. The bare wood tables and focaccia in olive oil are traditionally inspired in an otherwise modern "bar", a stark contrast to the much more laid back Nervosa down the street. There is nothing spectacular about the food and yet still above average enough to merit return visits. Prices aren't spectacular but I'll take it in Yorkville.”
The same can be said of our monthly escapades to Aquaterra’s Sunday brunch ($22). There is a lot of luxury built into our average perception of life. I say that as I plan for 17 days of foodie-galore via summerlicious. The plan is to make 34 reservations and see how many of them I can attend. All are Toronto Life recommended and include such hallmarks like Canoe, Auberge, Colborne Lane and North 44. For those two weeks I expect this blog to be on fire. I am doing this because this will be the last summer in a long time (presumably) when I can restaurant-hop with such hunger. The monetary ramifications will be dire, likely $1500 over two weeks. I’m most interested in seeing where the point of diminishing returns is on such an expensive food regime.
Thankfully, Financial Management Institute of Canada heard my dire need of funding today and provided a $2500 scholarship (http://www.fmi.ca/pages/ontario/FMI_Ontario_Chapter_Scholarship.shtml). With the administrative mess associated with rankings calculations, this may be the only success this summer. This story brings back the recurring topic about happiness. At 8:36AM I received electronic notice that I had won. At 8:37, the previous email was “recalled”. Though the situation had not changed since 8:35, I felt much worse. In finance, I believe this is the bird-in-hand theory. At 10:35, I received confirmation that I did indeed win, and I probably felt better than I did at 8:36AM. The role expectations play is ever so consuming. Losing something you thought you had is way worse than losing something you never knew you had. I learnt last night that lowering expectations, though, does not improve happiness (http://www.ted.com/talks/tali_sharot_the_optimism_bias.html). The reason stated was zany (along the lines of blaming yourself for not trying hard enough) but the correlation is still there. And to change an expectation is ever so difficult. 80% of people have an optimism bias. I would like to think I fall into the other 20%.
The last several weeks in pictures
Lucien: this place keeps on getting worse. We’ll see if summerlicious does anything for it. I’m going for lunch. (Pictured are trout and pork).
CN Tower: an Eyesore, a "Mouth"-Sore
I have a firm belief that any tourist is necessarily bad. Nowhere was this more apparently than New York City. The further off-broadway you went, the better things got. Spring awakening was miles ahead of Wicked. One particularly fond dining experience I had was at a Spotted Pig, hidden away in the West Village but overflowing with customers. Wall Street Bankers might find it difficult to leave their perch to gallivant with the Proles but will find it appetizing. Two ridiculously fresh beers I had (Coney Island Mermaid Pilsner (Brooklyn, NY) $8 & Brooklyner Weise (Brooklyn, NY) $8) had yeast still at the bottom in the tradition of Cask Beer. I then got the Chargrilled Burger with Roquefort & Shoestrings, which was really a house special. I could have used some vegetables but it was made for a true meatlover. Contrast that experience to the torrent of posh restaurants on 5th or Madison (I’m thinking Smith & Wollensky for some reason) that serve the same generic meal for super-inflated prices.
Toronto on the other hand is not very touristy. As a result most of the restaurants are really quite good. The one clear exception to the rule is 360 at the CN Tower. As you may know, when relatives from distant parts of the world arrive on your doorstep, you become rather nationalistic and market your country like no tomorrow. Thankfully, Canada is easy to sell. Fresh off the plane, a (Chinese) mainlander might remark at how clear the skies are or how temperate the climate is. If not to make them jealous, we need to keep our financiers happy.
And as with any tourist, the CN Tower is a must-see. Unfortunately, it gets enough traffic that it can sell $100 steaks that have absolutely nothing on homecooked ones (I went home last weekend to celebrate National Cow Day, the day Whole Foods puts natural ribeyes on sale). The steaks at CN tasted like they were pre-frozen. The meat had no flavor other than the oily, fatty kind; the texture was that of mashed potato. Tastelessness was true across the board – salmon, halibut, lamb… it tasted like a buffet. At least the wine was good.
The bill came to $550 (for eight people) and the marketing campaign came to an end. The tourists were happy to see such a large piece of meat. I was happy to return home to make some summerlicious reservations.